How to Choose Safe Dog Chews: The Right Size and Hardness

A safe dog chew is one that gives a little when you press your thumbnail into it, is too big for your dog to fit entirely in their mouth even when half worn down, and suits how hard your dog chews. Avoid very hard items such as antlers, hooves and weight-bearing bones, never give cooked bones, supervise every chew, and take it away once it is small enough to swallow.

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This guide explains why dogs need to chew, how to judge hardness and size in the shop, how each common type of chew compares, which chews suit puppies, adults and older dogs, and the warning signs that mean a trip to the vet.

At a glance

• Hardness: if your thumbnail cannot dent it, it is hard enough to risk breaking a tooth.
• Size: too big to fit fully inside the mouth, and still too big when half worn.
• Match the chewer: gentle nibblers, steady gnawers and power chewers need different chews.
• Supervise every chew and remove it once small, sharp or broken.
• Edible chews are food, so count them in the daily ration.

Why chewing is a need, not a vice

Dogs chew for the same reasons they sniff: it is built in and it feels good. A dog with no suitable outlet will find one you did not choose, usually a skirting board, a shoe or the sofa.

Chewing and licking are also how many dogs settle themselves. You will often see it after visitors leave or after an exciting walk. The rhythm helps a dog switch off, so “stop my dog chewing” is rarely the right goal. The goal is to give chewing somewhere safe to go.

Step 1: Work out what kind of chewer your dog is

Watch your dog with a familiar chew for a few minutes. Most dogs fit one of three styles, and the style matters more than breed or size.

Chewing style	What it looks like	Usually suits	Use with care
Gentle nibbler	Licks, mouths and nibbles slowly; chews last a long time	Softer rubber toys, compressed chews, lick mats, stuffed frozen toys	Very hard items they cannot make progress on
Steady gnawer	Lies down and works with the back teeth; wears chews down gradually	Firm rubber, dried single-ingredient chews, wood-composite chews	Hide chews that soften into gulpable pieces
Power chewer or shredder	Crunches, rips and destroys most items in minutes	Durable firm rubber in a larger size, large edible chews, frozen stuffed toys	Rope, plush and anything that breaks into chunks

If your dog loves to shred rather than gnaw, our guide to choosing the right toy for your dog’s play style covers play toys that suit that urge.

Step 2: Check the hardness

Hardness is the most useful thing to judge and the one most owners never think about. When a chew does not give at all, something has to lose the contest, and that is often the tooth. Veterinary dentists commonly see fractured teeth, especially the large upper cheek teeth dogs use for crunching, in dogs given very hard chews. Three quick tests help:

• The thumbnail test. Press your thumbnail firmly into the chew. A mark or a little give suggests a sensible range. If your nail slides off as if on stone, choose something softer.
• The knee test. Tap it against your kneecap. If it hurts you, it is harder than you want in your dog’s mouth.
• The flex test. Try to bend it. Something that flexes or wears into shavings behaves differently from something rigid that cracks.

Also watch how it breaks down. Items that splinter into shards or snap off in one large chunk carry more risk than items that shred slowly.

Step 3: Check the size

Many chew accidents are about size rather than material. A chew should be too big for your dog to fit entirely in their mouth, and still too big when half worn down. If you are between sizes, go up, especially for a dog who gulps food.

Watch how your dog holds it. A dog lying down and working a chew with their back teeth is doing what you hoped. A dog trying to manoeuvre the whole thing to the back of their mouth is telling you it is too small.

The main types of chew compared

Every type suits some dogs and not others. This table summarises the trade-offs; the notes below add detail.

Chew type	Hardness	Main risk	Best for
Firm rubber toys (solid or hollow)	Firm but gives	Pieces torn from worn toys	Most dogs; stuffable and freezable
Nylon and hard plastic	Hard	Tooth wear or fracture; sharp worn edges	Only if it passes the thumbnail test
Rope and fabric	Soft	Swallowed strands and stuffing	Supervised play, not solo chewing
Wood-composite	Medium to hard	Fragments if very worn	Steady gnawers; inspect often
Dried single-ingredient chews (ears, tendons, skins, fish skin)	Soft to medium	Calories; gulping small ends	Most dogs, in the right size
Rawhide and hide chews	Softens when chewed	Choking or blockage from gulped pieces	Patient chewers only, with the stub removed
Compressed or moulded chews	Soft to medium	Eaten fast by strong chewers	Gentle chewers and older dogs
Antler, horn, hoof, weight-bearing bone	Very hard	Broken teeth	Widely discouraged by vets
Cooked bones	Brittle	Splinters, mouth and gut injury, blockage	Never suitable

Non-edible chew toys

Firm rubber toys are easy to judge, washable and long-lasting, and hollow ones can be stuffed and frozen for a slower, calming chew. Retire any toy once the surface is ragged or pieces start coming off. Nylon and hard plastic chews appeal to owners of power chewers because they last, but they sit at the hard end of the scale, so apply the thumbnail test honestly and check for sharp edges. Rope and fabric toys are best kept for supervised games, since swallowed strands can cause serious gut problems.

Edible chews

Dried single-ingredient chews are popular and come in a useful range of sizes. They are food, so they count towards the day’s intake, and some are messy enough to need a mat. Hide chews soften as they are worked, and the usual danger is a dog who tears off and swallows a large softened piece, so size up and remove the last stub. Compressed chews are usually softer and suit gentler dogs, though a strong chewer will finish one in minutes.

Very hard natural items and bones

Antlers, horns, hooves and dense weight-bearing bones last a long time, which is why people buy them, but they are the category most often linked with broken teeth, and many vets suggest avoiding them. Cooked bones of any kind become brittle and can splinter, so they should never be given. If you are considering raw bones as part of your dog’s diet, discuss it with your vet first, as advice varies and there are risks to weigh.

Where to buy dog chews

Raw Paws Pet Food sells single-ingredient dog chews and freeze-dried treats. Use the checks in this guide to choose a size and hardness that suits your dog, and supervise every chew.

Browse dog chews at Raw Paws → (affiliate link)

See freeze-dried treats at Raw Paws (affiliate link)

Chews and dental health: what they can and cannot do

Many chews are marketed as “dental”, but the label alone tells you little. The Veterinary Oral Health Council (VOHC), a group of veterinary dentists and dental scientists, reviews manufacturers’ data and awards a Seal of Acceptance to products shown to reduce plaque, tartar or both when used as directed. If dental benefit matters to you, look for that seal rather than the word “dental” on the pack. The VOHC also advises choosing a chew sized for your dog’s weight and giving it only when you can watch.

Even a sealed chew does not replace daily tooth brushing, which remains the gold standard for home dental care, or regular dental checks with your vet. Our guide to dog dental care explains how to start brushing gently.

Chewing needs by life stage

Teething puppies

A teething puppy’s mouth is sore, and chewing helps them cope. Keep everything soft and pliable, use chilled or frozen items, and expect a lot of demand. Puppy teeth are fine and easily broken, so hard items belong later in life. A puppy chewing everything often needs more sleep as well as more chews; our guide on how to stop puppy biting covers redirecting mouthy puppies kindly, and the puppy first-year guide shows when teething usually happens.

Adolescents and adults

For many dogs the chewiest phase arrives after teething, as adult teeth settle and jaw strength outpaces judgement. Increase the supply of suitable chews rather than the telling off. Heavy chewers usually stay heavy chewers for life, so plan for durable options.

Older dogs

Many older dogs still want to chew but cannot manage what they used to. Softer items, stuffed frozen toys and licking-based options let them keep the habit. Reluctance to chew, dropping food, chewing on one side or new bad breath is a reason to see your vet, not to change the chew. Our guide to caring for a senior dog covers other changes to watch for.

Calories: where chews fit in the diet

Edible chews are food, and a dog getting several a day may be eating much more than the bowl suggests, especially when more than one person hands them out. A widely used veterinary guideline is that treats, chews included, should make up no more than about 10% of a dog’s daily calories. Trim meals a little on generous days, and ask your vet if you are unsure. Our guide to what to feed your dog shows how treats fit into a balanced diet.

Supervision, and when to take a chew away

Supervision is the non-negotiable part. Chews are not something to hand over as you leave the house or to leave in a crate, because trouble happens quickly and quietly. If you need to occupy your dog while you are out, a food-dispensing toy is lower risk; see our guide to choosing a puzzle feeder.

Use this checklist every time. Take the chew away when:

• It has worn down small enough to fit fully in your dog’s mouth
• A piece has broken off, or a softened chunk is coming loose
• It has a sharp edge or point
• Your dog stops chewing and starts trying to swallow it
• Your dog is guarding it, going stiff or gulping it because someone is near
• You see blood on the chew, or your dog seems uncomfortable

Swap rather than snatch: offer something tasty, pick up the chew as your dog steps away, and keep it routine. If your dog already guards chews, give them in a quiet spot away from people and other pets, and ask a reward-based trainer for help rather than confronting it.

Building a simple chew kit

You do not need forty products. Most households do well with a small rotation:

1. One durable non-edible toy that passes the thumbnail test, for everyday chewing.
2. One hollow, stuffable toy to fill and freeze for evening wind-downs.
3. Edible chews in a size comfortably too big to swallow.
4. Something soft for supervised shredding, if your dog enjoys it.
5. A washable mat or towel where chewing happens.

Inspect each item every time it comes out, and offer a chew before your dog needs one rather than after the sofa has suffered. Rotating items keeps them interesting.

Common mistakes when choosing chews

• Going harder for a power chewer. Look for durability and size, not rock-hardness.
• Buying the size on the label rather than the size of the dog. Check it against your dog’s mouth.
• Leaving chews unsupervised. Most accidents happen when nobody is watching.
• Giving cooked bones or table scraps with bones in. They splinter and can cause serious injury.
• Trusting the word “dental”. Look for evidence such as the VOHC seal, and keep brushing.
• Forgetting the calories. Several chews a day can quietly add weight.
• Keeping worn toys too long. Ragged edges and loose pieces mean it is time to replace.

When to call your vet

Contact your vet promptly if your dog breaks or chips a tooth, swallows a large piece, retches, gags, drools heavily, paws at their mouth, goes off their food, seems bloated or sore, or has vomiting, diarrhoea or straining after a chew. Blockages and dental injuries are veterinary matters, and both are easier to deal with early. Our guide on when to call the vet explains which signs are urgent. Your vet is also the best person to ask which chews they are happy with for your dog, particularly after dental work or gut trouble.

Cooked bones are just one of several human foods that are dangerous for dogs, alongside grapes, onions and anything containing xylitol.

Related guide: How to Stop Dog Chewing: Smart, Kind Fixes for Every Cause.

Sources this guide draws on: Veterinary Oral Health Council guidance on its Seal of Acceptance and on choosing and supervising dental chews; general veterinary dentistry guidance on tooth fractures from hard chews; widely used veterinary nutrition guidance on treat calories.

Frequently asked questions

What are the safest chews for dogs?

There is no single safest chew, but the safest choices share three features: they give a little under your thumbnail, they are too large to swallow, and they suit your dog’s chewing style. Firm rubber toys and appropriately sized single-ingredient chews suit most dogs, given under supervision.

Are antlers and bones safe for dogs?

Antlers, hooves and dense weight-bearing bones are among the items most often linked with broken teeth, and many vets advise against them. Cooked bones should never be given, as they can splinter. Ask your vet before offering any bone.

Is rawhide bad for dogs?

Rawhide is not automatically dangerous, but it softens as it is chewed, and dogs who tear off and swallow large pieces risk choking or a blockage. If you use it, choose a large size, supervise closely and remove the last small piece.

Can I leave my dog alone with a chew?

It is safer not to. A chew wearing down to swallowable size or breaking apart can happen quickly and silently. A food-dispensing puzzle toy is a lower-risk way to keep your dog busy while you are out.

Do dental chews replace brushing?

No. Chews with a VOHC Seal of Acceptance have shown they can reduce plaque or tartar when used as directed, but daily brushing remains the gold standard, alongside regular dental checks with your vet.

How often should my dog have a chew?

Most dogs benefit from something to chew every day, ideally when they are most restless. Keep edible chews within the treat allowance, roughly a tenth of daily calories, and ask your vet how to balance them with meals.

Choosing a chew is about matching the item to the dog in front of you: soft enough to dent, big enough not to swallow, and always supervised. Get those three right and chewing becomes a safe, calming part of your dog’s day.